Xbox One S Tip: Upgrade Your Storage.
While Microsoft’s initial run of Xbox One S consoles includes 500 GB, 1 TB and even 2 TB options, users will eventually face the same issue we see on smartphones and tablets: That storage will simply fill up as we install apps and games. Fortunately, there’s a solution.
I was among those who purchased an Xbox One S 2 TB Launch Edition console specifically because I kept running into storage issues on my original Xbox One, which features a smaller 512 GB hard drive. (Speaking of which, if you want one too, act quickly: The 2 TB version of the Xbox One S will soon sell out, but you can still get it now at Amazon.com for $400.) Even still, the available storage—which is closer to 1.6 TB than 2 TB, go figure—is filling up quickly. With 10 games installed, I’ve used up 22 percent of my storage, or about 400 GB. And I still have a lot more to install.
The issue, of course, is that Xbox One games are ginormous. Most are north of 20 GB, and Call of Duty: Black Ops III , with just two of the four planned map packs installed, occupies 70 GB of space. Halo: The Master Chief Collection —which, granted, includes four full games—is even bigger once you get all the DLC (downloadable content) installed.
With two of the three Xbox 360 models that Microsoft offered over the years, there was an elegant way to replace the internal hard drive with a newer drive with more capacity. But starting with the Xbox 360 E, and continuing through both generations of Xbox One, Microsoft no longer offers this option. Instead, you can only expand the device’s storage by adding an external USB-based hard drive (HDD).
Fortunately, this is very easy. And mobile HDDs don’t even require an additional power supply, so you may not need to deal with extra wires. And they’re cheap.
There are just two requirements: The disk must be 256 GB or bigger, and it must be USB 3.0, I assume for performance reasons. (Speaking of which, if you get a faster 7200 RPM HDD, it’s possible that games and apps stored there will actually load slightly faster than they do from the internal Xbox One S HDD.)
Configuring a drive for Xbox One couldn’t be easier: Simply plug the HDD into an available USB port. When you do, you’ll be prompted to choose how you’d like to use the drive: As a media drive (where you access music, videos, or photos on the disk using entertainment apps) or for game and app storage.
If you choose the latter, the drive will need to be formatted: Xbox One S uses a proprietary disk format. So choose “Format storage device.” You’ll be prompted to giv the drive a name—“External” is the default—and then to decide whether this new disk is the default storage location for future game and app installs.
Then, you’ll be prompted to actually format the disk.
From here, you can navigate to Settings, System, Storage to see and manage the new disk. (Note that the default save location is marked here, too.)
If you select the disk, you will see various options related to disk management, including View contents (which displays the My Games & Apps view of that disk), Install here by default, Rename, and Format.
From here, you can happily move on to installing new games and apps to the new disk. But you can also move games and apps from the internal drive to the external HDD if you’d like. To do so, launch My Games & Apps, noting that there is a new filter for All Storage, Internal, and External. Select an installed game you’d like to move and then press the Menu button on your controller. In the pop-up menu that appears, choose Manage Game.
From this screen, choose “Move all” and then “Move.” The game will be moved to the internal drive immediately.
Note: If you do choose to remove this drive from your Xbox One S, you’ll need to format it again to use it with your PC. To do, plug the HDD into a USB port on your PC. Then, launch the Disk Management utility (WINKEY + X, Disk Management in Windows 10) and follow the prompts to initialize the disk. Then, right-click the disk and choose “Simple Volume” and follow the wizard to format the disk.
UWP on Xbox One.
In this article.
Get started building apps for the Universal Windows Platform (UWP) on Xbox One.
UWP on Xbox One supports developing both apps and games. You don't have to be part of a developer program to experiment, create, and test games or apps on Xbox. All you need is a developer account on Windows Dev Center. When you are ready to publish and sell games on Xbox One or take advantage of Xbox Live on Windows 10, you need to join the Xbox Live Creators Program or be an ID@Xbox developer. If you plan to be an ID@Xbox developer, we recommend applying to the program first before registering for a developer account. For more info, see Developer program overview.
This section includes setup steps, a guide through the authentication process, information about installing the required versions of Visual Studio and Windows 10 tools, and the steps to build, run, and debug your first simple application.
The following talks on Channel 9 are a great source of information for building amazing apps on Xbox:
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XBox One defekte Festplatte?
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Registriert am: 24. September 2013.
Xbox360: XBox 360 slim.
Freitag, 8. Mai 2015, 08:52.
XBox One defekte Festplatte?
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Xbox One: Slim 500GB.
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LiNK User: Herrgoettle.
Ich spiele z.Zt.: mit meinem PC.
Freitag, 8. Mai 2015, 09:09.
1. On my X1 I reset to factory defaults.
2. On the setup screen I just unplugged the power cord to turn the X1 off.
3. (the fun part) Go on your PC and download the OSUDT2 Files from this site : http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/s…diagnostic-tool.
4. Make two folders on your desktop called 'A' & 'B' and place all files except updater.xvd in both the folders. updater.xvd stays outside the two folders.
5. Take the files mentioned above and put on a USB stick also place Juvenals xboxonemasterhdd.zip on the USB aswell. (different from the one used to boot Linux)
6. Boot into linux and try Ubuntu.
7. Open Terminal.
go to cd 'drag and drop the zip so you are in the correct working directory' Ex cd desktop/xboxonemasterhdd/
8. First command type 'sudo python ./xboxonehdd.py' followed by the device, if you cant find this go to the disks application and look next to dev/ sdc<-- this is your device name.
9 So the cmd would be sudo python ./xboxonehdd.py sdc.
10. It will create a file named mkxboxfs.sh this is a shell script.
11. now type 'sudo bash ./mkxboxfs.sh sdc (rememder the device name)' it will create 5 partitions you can watch them be created in the disks app.
12. Now we need to add the OSUDT2 files from your USB. Make sure the System Update partition is mounted and open it. Place the folders A & B, and updater.xvd in the partitions its the EASY.
13. Now unmount all the partitions. But not the USB drive to boot linux.
14. Run the first script again. type 'sudo python ./xboxonehdd.py'
15. type yes in the next prompt and hit enter.
16. Put into X1, it should boot to the setup screen because you restored your console in step 1. Fill out your info and you are good to go. No black screen or updating required. Boots fine with no issues. So dont fret and Read Up!
andernfalls ab zur garantie mit der one.
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xbox one hard drive formatting.
How do I format a new internal hard drive to work for xbox one?
Ist dies eine gute Frage?
7 Antworten.
I had this question as well.
Seems that it is rather cumbersome to swap the harddrive, not to mention that it's unclear yet if it might get you banned in the future. Response from Microsoft and their support was pretty clear: it violates their user agreement (you're not allowed to modified the XBox One), so I ended up buying a cheap Western Digital 2Tb USB 3.0 drive (like this one) and am using that right now - works like a charm by the way.
After having bought that one, I did notice a possible more elegant option with this hard drive enclosure which is said to attach nicely to the XBox One.
Not the answer I was looking for, but it is what I've decided to do .
Hope this helps.
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
It's not that cumbersome, requiring only.
Xbox One HDD Replacement wiki (scroll to bottom): http://jw0914.github.io/Wikis/
that good to know that it violates the user agreement because I was thinking about swaping the HD.
if i do restore factory defaults. all gemas well removed ?
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
How about cloning it to a bigger hard drive?
Xbox One HDD Replacement wiki (scroll to bottom): http://jw0914.github.io/Wikis/
ooh my good lord ,you guys seem way smarter than me 'cuz when had a probem w/HDD I went and bought a SEAGATE "3tb" PLUG nPLAY for $99 cnd no muss no fuss, truly plug&play it took longer to unwrap than it did to set up. Im writing this on my xb1's browser, now it works great . but whad do I know . good luck guys.
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
I did try the external hard drive with good results for games but Xbox still boots from internal.
There's many reasons why one would prefer a larger internal drive versus that of an external hdd, as there are restrictions on what can and cannot be saved to an external drive. Additionally, whereas the internal drive is easily viewable should you need to view files on the drive, external drives have their first sector bits flipped, resulting in some prerequisites prior to the the drive being accessible from a PC.
I hope you work it out & good luck.
I know this question is kind of old but, for those of you who are not linux guru's (me) there is a windows based program that will allow you to partition and format a new hdd for an xbox one. The program is called xboxonehdd-master. you will also need the OSU1 from xbox one website.
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
I am in agreement with you that it's "my hardware", but if you read their agreement (mostly aiming at XBox Live I assume) one could assume that modifying hardware might result in getting banned from XBox Live.
I guess that's the big deal for most users.
Granted, replacing a hard drive with a larger model should not be a problem in my opinion, but . Microsoft could take it as an excuse in the future to block you, or not.
1. (c) “ Authorized Accessory ” means a Microsoft branded Xbox One, Xbox 360 or Xbox hardware accessory, and/or a Microsoft licensed, third-party branded, Xbox One, Xbox 360 or Xbox hardware accessory whose packaging bears the official “Licensed for Xbox” and/or the “Designed for Xbox” logo.
2. (i) You will not use Unauthorized Accessories or Unauthorized Games. They may not work or may stop working permanently after an Xbox Software update.
2. (iii) You will not attempt to defeat or circumvent any Xbox Console, Kinect Sensor or Authorized Accessory technical limitation , security, or anti-piracy system. If You do, Your Xbox Console, Kinect Sensor or Authorized Accessory may stop working permanently at that time or after a later Xbox Software update.
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
Thank you for the clarification :-)
I agree that shooting from the hip is not a good approach - I did however, contact Microsoft before I wanted to start replacing my hard-drive and did get the answer (my first post) that it would violate the XBox-live agreement. It was not their legal department though, but their tech support (who might have gotten the instructions by their "boss" to always give that answer, true or not).
I also agree that it's "my" hardware, so I should have the freedom to do what I like, unless it's to intentionally harm a company (like Microsoft) financially (ie. illegal games etc), and not have to be ripped off for something that should have been possible/there to begin with.
Anyhow; thanks again for the clarification - no offense taken. :-)
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
If one is looking for clarification on legal terms in warranties, licenses, etc., always contact the company's legal department and not customer service/tech support, as all they're going to do is give you their "opinion" or perception of what it says, not the legal definition.
One should always go to the source for clarification, not a third party. The legal department is who writes the licenses and warranties (however with the latter, it's final wording may be determined by the underwriter(s) for whichever insurance company is backing the warranty for the OEM).
If ever in doubt about a component being replaced in the Xbox One, ask one's self the following:
* If X component fails and I send the unit back to Microsoft to have it fixed, is there anything in the license that references that as being a license violation?
* If not, does the license state anywhere replacing a failed component violates the license?
If the answer to both is no, then replacing a component does not violate the software license.
I too am having one heck of a time. I bought an xbox one 500 GB from ebay that had one of the E200 error codes. I've been trying for over a week to get this thing working, following all of the wiki's/posts out on the internet. I am successfully able to format/repartition the drive using Ubuntu and the scripts/tools. the "drives" application reports a SMART status of OK. However, anytime I have either put the contents of the OSUDT2 files on either the newly formatted drive in the A and B folders per the instructions, or a flash drive, I receive an error. My latest attempt was to simply format/partition/unmount the HDD in Ubuntu and then install the blank but newly formatted/partitioned drive in the xbox and install the OSUDT2 file from MSFT via a USB drive. Yes I ran that script that says "are you sure you want to make this an xbox HDD?" The console was able to install the update and reboot, but during the "applying update" phase it reached 66% then threw the "something went wrong" page and error E200 again. I'm going to try using the factory reset via USB on it next.
Do these consoles have the ability to format/partition a bare drive on there own? I would think the easiest approach from MSFT, would be if a drive failed, simply take it apart, put in a new drive of the same size, reassemble, then run the OSUDT file from USB to re-install the OS - but alas, it doesn't appear that works.
War diese Antwort hilfreich?
Have you looked at the Wiki; however the OSUDT process be tried first.
- Download OSUDT 1 & 2.
- Follow OSUDT instructions for USB drive.
1. Partition the HDD with xboxonehdd script, then re-run after makexboxfs, then install HDD in XB1.
2. Follow OSUDT instructions for turning XB1 on.
3. XB1 update will fail and once it does, power off the XB1 via the menu (if you're offered one), or by a single touch to the power button.
4. Once XB1 is fully shutdown, remove USB drive, delete all OSUDT 1 files, & copy over all files from OSUDT 2 to the USB drive's root, then plug back into the XB1.
5. Repeat step 2. If the update does not auto resume, select the applicable WinRE option for updating/rebuilding.
6. The XB1 should fully update, then boot into the OOBE first setup.
I did read through the wiki, however I'm just not having any luck with this. I followed it step by step, using the scripts from your wiki. I erased all partitions the drive so it was all free space. Then I ran the script to create the partitions and verified they were all named/sized properly and were mounted. I then unmounted all partitions, ran the script again (the one that says are you sure you want to make this an xbox hdd?) Put hdd back in xb1, and booted from USB using the osudt1 file. That gave me an error e101 (incorrect update I believe) I shut it down with one press, rebooted to USB with the osudt2 file and recieved the same e101. So I shut it down again with one button press, removed hdd from xb1 and reconnected in ubuntu. I decided to try and put the update file directly on the drive like the wiki instructed, so I started with osudt1. Again, I made sure hdd was unmounted, I ran that script again (to make it an xb1 hdd, just to be safe) put back in xb1. After xb1 booted it says preparing console for a moment, then failed with e200. I removed hdd from xb1, put back in computer, copied the osudt2 files over the B folder, removed hdd and put back in xb1, and booted. E200 error again. Seems like the console is trying to apply an update, the progress bar moves rather slowly from 1% to around 44%, then jumps to 66%, then jumps to e200. I then tried using the factory reset USB tool, and recieved an e201 error. Tried osudt2 on USB and still get e201 error. When I had the hard drive in the PC I could see that several folders were created on those other partitions. I'm not sure where to go next. My is version is showing as 10586.1202.amd64fre.th2_xbox_rel_1603.160420-1900. on the Xbox support site where it tells you which files to use i don't see mine listed. Only a few of the numbers match. I'm viewing my consoles is info on the trouble shoot screen since I'm not able to get into settings.
You're mixing processes, which is adding to your problems (and I think I left something out of my last reply). It may help to explain what's occurring in each step, as I forgot to include that in my wiki:
- Each xvd is a virtual drive, and for all intents and purposes, a separate partition. Think of the updater.xvd as a windows install disk.
- In order for a subsequent update to be applied, the previous one must exist (i.e. for OSUDT2 to be applied, OSUDT1 must be installed) in an installed state on partitions 1, 3, & 4 (this is what's at the root of most issues) From my own experiences, I have a hunch this is what the E200 errors refer to, with E101s referring to either partition layout or partition 4's files (perhaps both).
- See next comment for instructions, as I'm going to run out of character space otherwise.
- Copy OSUDT1 to folders A & B, with updater.xvd on the root of partition 4 & OSUDT1 on the root of the USB.
- Boot from USB. It "should" update to somewhere in the 30's then fail; Cleanly shutdown the XB1.
-Delete everything in folder B, copy OSUDT2 to it, remove everything from the root of the USB, & copy OSUDT2 to usb root.
- Boot from USB, it "should" finish updating. If it doesn't, I will perform this procedure tomorrow or thurs and reply back.
The wiki instructions as written do work. Due to spending hours troubleshooting different users' issues, to have it always shown the issues were due to failing to follow the instructions as written, I no longer will troubleshoot issues someone has w/ the wiki.
I'm only troubleshooting your issue specifically because I was already planning on adding the OSUDT support page section to my wiki, however once I'm able to determine the correct sequence of events, if you still have issues, you're on your own.
I'm in the preview program with the OS version 14366.1006.amd64fre.rs1_xbox_rel.1608_160617.1700 even following procedure described in the " Rebuilding OS," I can not complete step 7 and appears the error message e200 . Could you help me ?
Sorry for my English I am using Google Translate .
I'm not sure if you can do a rebuild if you're on a preview, as the OSUDT 1 & 2 updates are what allow for the rebuild to occur. Unless you have an OSUDT update for the preview, or have access to partition 4 on the original HDD, your best bet would be to contact Xbox and see if they can provide a way for you to do an offline update.
JW - when you say to copy the OSUDT1 to folders A and B, do I copy the entire contents of the .ZIP file to folders A and B on the xbox hdd, or do I copy only the files as laid out in your wiki (cut/paste below)?
Thank you for your help - I have a friend trying to clone another xbox1 hard drive for me, I'll try this when I get it back from him.
Also I read somewhere that the offline update has to match what is currently installed in the firmware on the XBOX or it will fail - for example, my console is currently on 10586.1202.amd64fre.th2_xbox_rel_1603.160420-1900 which looks like it is requiring OSUDT2. that is why I thought I received the E101 error when trying to update using OSUDT1 because it was an older version - is that true?
Would there be the possibility of using the OSDUT2 when updated versions of OS present in the file ? When I called the support they told me to use the OSDUT3 , but did not. Is there any chance to recover the HDD ? Or is it the end ? Thank you for your help.
The version would only be applicable if you were rebuilding on an HDD that had previously been installed in the XB1 and had Windows running; however, that does not apply to rebuilds on a bare drive with no previous Windows installation.
As to folder layout, I'm not 100%, but I don't believe extra OSUDT files in those folders affects a rebuild. The updater virtual disk must be on the root of partition 4, as this is what WinRE first looks in to start the rebuild process. The only file that doesn't belong in either A nor B is updater.xvd, and system.xvd is only booted from folder B (IIRC), however having it in folder A is well shouldn't harm anything.
Think of folder A as the backup folder (similar to an OEM's Windows recovery partition, with folder B being the active Windows partition (the C drive on a PC). Folder A contains a backup of the previous Update, however since no previous update is available before OSUDT1, it must be put in both A & B for the rebuild to occur.
OSUDT1 is the full OSUDT1 update.
OSUDT 2 is a sequential update with a prerequisite of OSUDT1.
OSUDT 3 is not an update at all. it's simply some version of of updater.xvd and contains no other files.
Xbox Support has no idea how to help one in your situation, and asking them for guidance on a rebuild following an HDD replacement will result in head meeting wall.
I'm not sure what you mean by "recover the HDD". if you're asking is a rebuild possible, yes it is. As I've stated before, the Wiki I wrote does work if followed to the letter. You can access it on my GitHub: JW0914.GitHub.io (scroll to very bottom). The Wiki is easy to follow, however due to spending hours troubleshooting issues users brought upon themselves by choosing not to fully read and follow what was written, I no longer offer any kind of help on the Wiki. It's there, and if followed, will result in a successful rebuild.
I finally managed to get my Xbox one working - thank you all, especially JW0914 for the help. I formatted the HDD in ubuntu as laid out in the wiki, copied the OSUDT2 files to the A and B folders, put HDD back in the XBOX, and booted from USB using a flash drive loaded with OSUDT2. The first attempt failed at "applying update" and threw an E102 error. So I thought, what the !&&*, and rebooted again with USB with OSUDT2, and lo and behold, it completed the update and was like it was new out of the box. I set everything up (time zone, network, etc) signed in to live, downloaded a few games, and its been working fine. One thing though - I got this from ebay and it came with a 1TB drive. I formatted it in linux and it used the entire drive, however after getting the Xbox working it only shows 300 some GB of free space. So, apparently, the XBOX does have some ability to resize partitions. but I'm happy it is working, so I'm leaving it alone.
I touch on this in a roundabout way in my wiki.
All Xboxes have the capability to reformat an HDD to the SAME partition layout as the HDD that shipped with the unit. You can't simply plop a bare HDD in an Xbox One and have it reformat it due to the GPT header that designates the drive as an Xbox One HDD and not a PC HDD. The 8GB NAND flash contains the EFI boot partition, the Recovery partition that contains WinRE, and likely a VHD that contains cli programs and scripts.
All you need to do now is create a WIM of partitions 1, 3, & 4 under Windows WIM Commands, then follow the steps under Rebuilding OS using OSUDT Downloads.
I'm having an issue trying to do the offline update, or even factory reset m XB1, it sits for while when I hit "reset" then shuts off and goes back to the "something went wrong" page and the troubleshooting page, I then tried to boot it with the help of an Ambassador, and I was using OSU1, because I have a code of E101, OR E102, it switches. But when I hit the "offline update" it chirps, then says "something went wrong." So I guess I'm asking, is there a way to boot STRAIGHT from a flash drive or external HDD with the updater, to see if my internal is just fried or what.
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Использование сенсора Xbox One Kinect с консолью Xbox One S или Xbox One X.
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Для использования наличного сенсора Kinect с новой консолью Xbox One S или Xbox One X потребуется адаптер для сенсора Xbox One Kinect. С помощью данного адаптера можно подключить сенсор Xbox One Kinect к консоли Xbox One S или Xbox One X.
Примечание. Сенсор Xbox 360 Kinect несовместим с Xbox One.
Производство сенсора Kinect и адаптера Kinect прекращено с ноября 2017 г. Корпорация Майкрософт больше не пополняет складские запасы адаптера Kinect. Клиенты могут поискать адаптер в других розничных магазинах. Предложение по обновлению с Xbox One для обладателей сенсора Kinect завершено в марте 2017 г.
Шаг 1: настройка адаптера.
Подключите источник питания к розетке. Вставьте круглый переходник источника питания в панель управления Kinect. Вставьте кабель сенсора Kinect в панель управления Kinect. Вставьте входящий в комплект USB-кабель в панель управления Kinect. Теперь можно переходить к подключению адаптера к консоли.
Шаг 2: подключение адаптера к консоли Xbox One S или Xbox One X.
Вставьте кабель USB 3.0 в левый USB-порт с меткой "Kinect" на задней части консоли. Теперь на консоли можно настроить сенсор Kinect. Рекомендуется не ставить сенсор Kinect и его адаптер непосредственно сверху на консоль. На консоли откройте гид и выберите Система . Выберите Все настройки > Устройства и Kinect . Выберите Kinect и следуйте инструкциям по настройке сенсора.
Есть несколько причин, по которым сенсор Kinect может не отвечать или выключаться при попытке использовать адаптер Kinect. и выполнить следующие действия, чтобы устранить проблему:
Убедитесь, что сенсор Kinect включен (см. параметры консоли). Перейдите в раздел Система > Все параметры > Kinect и устройства > Kinect . Выключите и снова включите свою консоль. Иногда могут иметь место проблемы с подключением сенсора к консоли, и в этом случае параметры консоли необходимо сбросить. Для этого выполните аппаратную перезагрузку консоли, удерживая нажатой кнопку питания в течение 5 секунд, пока консоль не выключится. Отсоедините источник питания от консоли и подождите 1 минуту, а затем снова подключите его и перезапустите консоль. Проверьте подключения сенсора и адаптера, чтобы убедиться, что каждый штекер надежно зафиксирован. Убедитесь, что сенсор и адаптер Kinect не установлены непосредственно на верхнюю панель консоли. Адаптер должен быть подключен к сети питания, чтобы передать на консоль данные Kinect. Проверьте источник питания адаптера и убедитесь, что светодиодный индикатор горит. Если после проверки источника питания проблемы сохранятся, выполните сброс источника питания адаптера Kinect: отключите его от сети, подождите 10 секунд и подключите снова. Если световой индикатор адаптера Kinect не горит, адаптер не получает питание от источника питания. Попробуйте другую розетку или замените адаптер, если это не поможет. Если световой индикатор источника питания оранжевый, это означает, что адаптер находится в пассивном режиме и ожидает ответа консоли. Выключите и снова включите свою консоль. Если световой индикатор источника питания белый, это означает, что адаптер получает питание и сенсор активен. Выключение и повторное включение консоли также должно исправить проблему неотвечающего сенсора, на который подается питание.
Xbox One S Teardown.
Speziell für diesen Teardown benötigte Werkzeuge.
iFixit Opening Tool.
T8 Torx Screwdriver.
T8 Torx Security Bit Screwdriver.
T10 Torx Screwdriver.
Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver.
Video Übersicht.
Einleitung.
Today a new Xbox lands in our inbox, and that's a rare thing—though not as rare as it used to be. What makes the new Xbox One S a worthy mid-cycle update to Microsoft's console? Let's tear down this surprisingly slimmer , possibly speedier , appreciably sassier Xbox One and find out. Game on!
This teardown season is just getting started—add us on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter and never miss a beat.
Dieser Teardown ist keine Reparaturanleitung. Um dein Xbox One S zu reparieren, verwende unsere Fehlerbehebungsseite.
Schritt 1 Xbox One S Teardown.
You'd expect some differences from the Day One Edition Xbox One we tore down way back in 2013, and you'd be right. Here's what we know:
Spec-bumped GPU supporting HDR10 along with the same AMD "Jaguar" 8-core SoC found in the original Xbox One.
2 TB of storage (500 GB and 1 TB configurations are coming)
HDMI 2.0a connectivity with support for 4K video at 60 Hz.
Internal power supply.
Fancy vertical stand (2 TB model only)
Redesigned Xbox Wireless Controller.
Etched into the starboard side of the Xbox One S, we find a cute reminder that this console still hails from the other tech capital of the West Coast: "Hello from Seattle," home of the Microsoft brigade.
Moving right along, we discover the Xbox One S is now identified as Model 1681.
In a design decision that takes us back to consoles of old, this One features mechanical buttons in lieu of capacitive ones.
Gamers with a toddler or wet-nosed pet know the pain of the ultra-sensitive power button on the original Xbox One.
Around back, under the many vent holes we find:
HDMI out (left) and in (right)
Two USB 3.0 ports (in addition to the one on the front)
IR output, optical audio, and Ethernet ports.
What about my Kinect, you ask? You can apply for a "free" Kinect USB adapter—provided you already own a Kinect, an original Xbox One, and the Xbox One S.
Those who buy a Kinect to go with their Xbox One S will have to purchase the $40 adapter separately.
Our first act of teardown: tamper evident sticker removal. But no screws in sight, just the back of an immobile plastic clip. Bummer.
We take a moment to reminisce about our old Xbox 360 Opening Tool, but decide our trusted iFixit Opening Tool would be of more use here.
Make that opening tools —because popping that plastic "security" nub takes a little extra oomph .
Do we like security clips? Not in a box. Not with a fox. Not in a house. Not with a mouse. We do not like them here nor there; we do not like them anywhere.
After some intense prying, we successfully remove the bottom cover, revealing a metal interior case.
These clips may be tough at first, but plastic is bound to bend or break, unlike a reusable screw. The next time you open your One S it may not clip back together.
I solved this problem with small white snap clips that you would use to hold auto plastic together.
Some nostalgic green screws labeled F (for first?) free the primary assembly from the upper case.
Remember when Xbox was black and green and not a Destiny bundle PS4?
This One, more streamlined than its predecessor, doesn't feature any weird, afterthought components left out in the cold.
All that's left in the PC/ABS case are some button covers and Sabic and Samsung logos—probably the plastic suppliers.
Okay, is it just the teardown giddiness, or does this case vaguely resemble a Star Destroyer hangar?
Lifting one metal midbody panel reveals a beautiful sight: such nice, sleek components that we are momentarily inclined to keep the cover off forever.
Somebody call the Jackson 5, 'cause identifying these numbered and labeled components is easy as 01-02-03 (and 04).
But wait—who's that we spy?
Master Chief has arrived on a new world, this time to protect the optical disc drive bracket. Hopefully the Flood keeps out of this drive for good.
Much like the RF board on the Xbox One, the front panel board of the Xbox One S detaches outward from the lower case.
With the front panel board's EMI shield removed, we quickly spy a lone IC and some of its friends:
MediaTek MT7632TUN (Likely a variation of MT7632 2x2 802.11n + Bluetooth 4.0 Module)
Sync switch for wireless controllers.
Any chance ifixit will be supplying this board as is the case with the Xbox One version? I need one for. reasons.
The horror, it's just a cut-cost version from the original. No tactile buttons because the ISD chip is missing. No power-up tunes or speaker for the same reason. The shielded connector is replaced by a cheap generic one.
Cheap Mediatek radios instead of Broadcom or Marvell.
Oh, and they have Apple complex, now using a black PCB.
Next up on the teardown chopping block is the Wi-Fi board. After removing a few Torx screws, it comes quietly just like the front panel board before it.
This is a nice incremental improvement over its location in the previous Xbox One—it makes for one less step to open the inner metal case.
Wi-Fi is handled by a MediaTek MT7612UN (Likely a variation of MT7612U 2x2 802.11ac Wi-Fi Module)
At this point, component removal is a bit of a hunt, so we extract some screws and see which component is freed first.
Oddly enough, despite being labeled 04, the hard drive is the first component out.
The labels are likely numbered according to assembly, rather than the disassembly.
We find a Samsung Seagate Spinpoint M9T ST2000LM003 2 TB 5400 RPM with 32 MB Cache SATA III 6.0 Gb/s hard drive. Try saying that ten times fast.
Sadly, hard drive replacements still void the warranty, and need some tricky formatting.
The One S packs a sweet SATA III drive, but it may still be using the SATA II interface of the original Xbox One. You can always add an external hard drive though, thanks Microsoft!
can you change it to a SSD tho?
Is this hard drive any different than the one in the original?
would love to know the answer if this drive is any better than the original. with the sata 3 port, i was almost sure the drive would be comparable to the hd in the elite.
I have successfully changed the hard drive to ssd in mine.
what is "may" still be using SATA II interface, is it SATA II or III?
Schritt 10.
The next to go is number two : the optical drive— too easy! Master Chief is of course along for the ride.
Here we have the artist formally known as a BD-ROM drive, courtesy of Philips and Lite-On Digital Solutions. The DG-6M5S model found in the Xbox One S is slightly different from the DG-6M1S found in the Xbox One, with the biggest upgrade being support for BD-UHD.
We also snag a couple rubber bumpers. These probably help keep the high-speed optical drive from rattling us off our rockers.
Schritt 11.
Now we come to the One S's hat trick (a.k.a. #03)—a smaller, newly-fanless, neatly-integrated power supply. Gone is that dangling anchor of yore.
An external power supply is much easier to replace than an internal one. So lets hope Microsoft did their homework to mitigate that need!
This power supply also accepts 100-240 V inputs, meaning you can take it pretty much anywhere there's a socket. Take that, Xbox One!
The power supply connects with what PC gamers will instantly recognize as a perfectly ordinary, 6-pin PCIe connector.
Is this USA version? All Xbox One S has accepts universal voltage 100-240?
Does Xbox One S from USA supports 100-240 V?
So if I buy an European version I can use it in US without any trouble or add-on needed?
Is there a way to reset this manually. Mine won't turn on after I plugged it into a surge protector. Xbox support says they won't take it back due to tampering.
Schritt 12.
Things are heating up in the teardown room, but we can't extract the "Thermal System" just yet. So we lift the whole dang motherboard assembly out of the metal casing.
A springy, X-shaped bracket secures the heat sink to the motherboard—a signature part we've seen in every Xbox since the original 360.
The "X" is a bit fussy and takes some muscle, but some practiced prying with a flathead driver saves the day.
Schritt 13.
With the component countdown nearly complete, it's time to extract part number 01: the thermal system.
Out comes the system's single 120 mm fan—looking much like a PC case fan, but with some sculpting that's unique to the Xbox One's design.
The standard Xbox One had a similarly robust cooling setup, possibly designed to avoid a repeat of the Xbox 360's billion dollar problem.
The backup for the One S's biggest fan is an impressive aluminum heat sink and copper heat pipe set. Cool.
For the size of the case that is one big heatsink and fan. Hopefully it allows the One S to operate fairly quietly. It's kind of ridiculous how much smaller the PS4 compared to the original Xbox One especially when you factor in the external power supply, but the PS4 does run very hot and loud compared to the One.
That's the trade off. The larger the fan, the lower the RPM's needed. PS4's fan is a side venting fan, which is loud as !&&*.
Is the heatsink the same as the one found in the original xbone?? because if it is then can't they run the fan at an even slower speed due to the decreased heat output of the new chip??
We can see that it has 4 PINs = PWM fan, means that they can run at slower speed based on selected sensors. However, sensors can be temperature of the board or processor or any other.
The 'new' chip doesn't run hotter. I'ts made using a smaller process (14nm instead of 20something I believe) which lets it run cooler, even with the 7% bump to the GPU.
The fan is actually larger than the original. 112mm compared to 120mm.
The problem with the PS4 is it might be thin but its really too deep. I find it really hard to fit on my shelf and I would have preferred it to be twice as tall and an inch or too less deep. It would also have helped fit a larger fan I expect.
I didn't like the original Xbox One especially the external PSU, but it looks like the S is a very nice refined design.
Can someone tell me the thickness of the fan? I know its 120mm wide, but I want to try to replace it with a PC fan with some modding. also, I see its a PWM 4-pin fan, which is good, but will it run any old fan?
Does anyone know if there is a voltage limit to the fans power socket?
Schritt 14.
Now on to our One true love, chips!
X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA (Includes 1.75 GHz AMD "Jaguar" 8-core CPU + overclocked 914 MHz AMD Radeon Graphics GPU)
16 x Samsung SEC 549 K4W4G1646E-BC1A 4 Gb (512 MB) "gDDR3" SDRAM (total of 16 x 512 MB = 8 GB)
X861949-005 T6WD5XBG-0003 Southbridge.
Toshiba THGBMFG6C1LBAIL 8 GB eMMC NAND Flash.
ON Semiconductor NCP4205 GASUY1614 (Likely an iteration of the NCP4204 GAC1328G Integrated Power Control IC found in the Xbox One)
Texas Instruments SN75DP159 6 Gb/s DP++ to HDMI Retimer.
SAMSUNG K4W4G1646E-BC1A should be GDDR3 not DDR3.
You're right! Thanks. We've updated the step and added a link to Samsung's product guide with additional info on that chip.
Any chance you could give a measurement of the dimensions of the "X949211-001 DG4001FYG87IA "? I'm trying to get a good idea of how big the shrink was (the last one was 363 mm2). I'm hoping the changes didn't add many transistors since I do already have a source for that info on the original (I think it was.
5 billion though obviously there's some rounding).
Never mind, Eurogamer has not measured it at 240mm2. Thank you anyway.
Do you know what this piece is called? PxD637 and where can i find it?
What is the dimensions of the board itself.
Schritt 15.
And on the back of the motherboard. is not much really.
Realtek RTL8111HM (Likely an iteration of the RTL8111 gigabit Ethernet Controller)
Oh and that handy front-side USB port—which is on the opposite end and opposite side from its friends, poor guy.
I looking for number of chip on place U6U1 left corner. Can I have full number, please ? Thank you.
Schritt 16.
Now on to the controller!
While we are disappointed by the lack of visible screws, we will celebrate a small concession: the batteries are still user-replaceable! (Looking at you, DualShock 4).
Using our recent console expertise, we bust out the trusty opening tools and pop off some white paneling, finding some sneaky Torx security screws. Boo.
Not only that, but a final Torx security screw is hiding under the battery compartment sticker. Double boo.
But hey, still better than Pentalobes.
Schritt 17.
Popping off those plastic panels reveals what looks like a neat little assembly, complete with four haptic feedback motors.
But once we start to extract the beast, we see the truth: Unless you're handy with a soldering iron, this is an all-or-nothing disassembly procedure.
We decided to pick option "all" and just lay everything out, still connected.
Beauty is only skin-deep, and so too are this controller's physical changes. Inside, it's largely the same design as the original Xbox One controller—our guides should be relevant for both models.
The new controller added Bluetooth to its existing WiFiDirect connection. Any notes on that?
With regards to the "Inside, it's largely the same design" comment. I've had two original controllers and an Elite controller that developed left stick drift. Are the joystick boxes any different in the One S controller or are they the same crappy part? TIA.
Yeah, I'd like to know if the stick assemblies use the same grey plastic clips that eventually pop off after wear and tear. Can you answer please?
Schritt 18.
That's a wrap! Time to lay out the parts and calculate a repairability score.
Abschließende Gedanken.
Only a few tools are required to take the whole console apart. Once inside, a clean, no-nonsense modular design allows the drives, fan, heat sink, PSU, wireless board, and front daughterboard to be easily replaced. Fewer interlocking body panels and a simpler clip arrangement make opening this generation of Xbox easier than its senior. Replacing the hard drive will require both voiding your warranty and some difficult hackery to make it serviceable.
Reparierbarkeits-Index.
(10 ist am einfachsten zu reparieren)
Scott Havard.
Mitglied seit 27.06.2016.
117 Anleitungen geschrieben.
44 Kommentare.
My question is whether the SATA controller on the motherboard is a SATA III interface; the tear down guide (which is great btw!) only mentions that the 2TB hard drive itself is SATA III. According to the Xbox One (original) tear down guide and this tear down guide, both the Xbox One and Xbox One S use the same south bridge; which would imply that the Xbox One S is only capable of SATA II speeds, regardless of the fact it holds a SATA III drive.
I Googled the X861949 southbridge and it's the exact same one as in the first Xbone.
It hardly matters; no HDD is going to get anywhere near the limits of the SATA II bus, let alone the SATA III bus. You need a seriously fast SSD to start seeing a difference there, and AFAICT the XBone's OS isn't set up to do TRIM, which would limit the lifespan.
wonder about the possibility of cloning the HDD to a SSD. has anyone tried this yet?
I hope someone tries it because I want to know if it can be done.
An user cloned his 500gb hdd on a 500gb SSD and it worked, not sure if cloning a source bigger than the target will still do the trick.
I can confirm it will work. I have the original model Xbox One and put a 2TB hard drive in there, no issues. It's not even as hard as these guys make it sound. You just plug your original hard drive into a computer and make an image of it ("dd" style image, I use Win32DiskImager on Windows for it), then write the image back to your new drive.
If the new drive is larger (which is generally the whole point), boot up GParted and enlarge the data partition. They are all NTFS, no proprietary stuff like the 360. Worked first try.
I used this tutorial when I changed my Xbox One's 500gb hard drive to a Seagate 1tb sshd hybrid drive(Pretty much the same disk that MS use in Xbox One elite console). I would recommend this operation to everyone who fully understand the instructions and are willing to sacrifice the warranty.
Yes, I put a samsung evo 850 500gb ssd internally in my xbox. The clone process is fairly simple. A little linux knowhow is required. However, I don't know if the XB1 supports trim.
And Fallout 4 see's a significant decrease in load times. It's actually playable now. 15-20 second load time vs 1-2 minutes.
A SATA III hard drive does not make a SATA III system. The southbridge is the same, so I assume still limited to SATA II.
There is one thing that is not clear to me about this teardown. Does the One S motherboard have a SATA3 port or is it only the Seagate HDD that has the SATA3 port? Also, the controller was dismissed as being the same, but it's definitely not the same as the original Xbox One controller from 2013. It has a headphone jack, Bluetooth, different bumpers, and a textured grip.
so it has a separate wifi N chip for the controllers? that explains why they need a separate proprietary adaptor for pc use, also using SATA II while having usb 3 is pretty odd, not to mention this thing seems to be at least on par with modern 2013 APU systems, now down to 16nm, the psu is a lot smaller it seems it barely uses half the wattage of before thanks to the process shrink.
The GPU is not the one that the original xbox one has . Xbox one S has a new GPU polaris 11, most likely the RX 460 with h.265 hardware acceleration. The system is codenamed "Durango Polaris".
I don't suppose you noticed where the IR sensor is (not the blaster) on this unit compared with the Xbox One?
The original xbox one doesn't have an IR blaster, you have to use kinect.
What are the xbox one s motherboard dimensions..
What are the xbox one s motherboard dimensions.
Do you think the xbox one s can be water cooled? What kind of cpu waterblock can fit on it cause im going to experiment on the 500gb model.
https://imgur.com/a/EZuso Yes you can, with a bit of modification.
Do you think can the xox one s be watetcooled? What cpu waterblock can fit?
Just wanted to know the plastic is painted white or some kind of coating? Because when I recieved mine it had what appeared to be a hair that was stuck into the front next to the eject button going inside of the disc slot.Or it could of been a plastic burr from manufacturing it. At first I thought it was a crack but upon further inspection with a light I noticed it was a hair stuck into the surface texture of the front console. When I removed it a light line was left. It drives me nuts and only I can motice it from about 3 inches away. Wanted to know if it could be painted to match. Or should I just get over it. Thanks.
Pretty sure it has 8 gig DDR3 RAM not GDDR3.
You may be right. Samsung lists these chips as "gDDR3" (as opposed to GDDR3)—but if you read the fine print, it's not categorized as GDDR3 but rather SDDR3 SDRAM. It's possible Samsung is muddying the waters by using a product name with a lower case "g" that has nothing to do with the GDDR3 standard.
Is the Xbox One fan compatible with the One S fan? Seems the looks like almost the same but.
Aside of a marking on the power supply (110-240) did you actually try pluging in two different voltages?
if we bought Xbox One S from US, can we use it in Turkey? Do we need any other power supply to convert the voltage?
Can the power button be reorientated or is it fixed in there for good? I ask this because when i have my 2tb vertical using the stand the power button display really bugs me.
I may take mine apart and add lights to it, I'll also try and spin the button good shout.
I'd like to know if a PC will recognise the UHD-BD drive so we can get one step closer to cracking open a 4K disc.
Thanks to you guys I dared to open my noisy little X-Box and plant a PC fan in it. The noisiest part since is the new 2 TB HDD which I installed while the case was open. Pictures here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ap7h5FFmvMougR0R5fCx.
Cool, excuse my ignorance - but does it plug straight into the xbox motherboard without any special soldering etc required?
No it doesn't. I had to cut the connector off of the original PC fan and the X-Box fan and reconnect them with 3M Scotchlok connectors. Since I am not an expert technician I simply guessed that it would be a standard PWM fan with a proprietary connector. After cutting the cables I connected the X-Box connector to the Noctua fan cables in the same order they left the fan motor of the X-Box fan (from left to right: Noctua: black, ye, gr, blue; X-Box all black). I hope you get what I am trying to say here, since English isnt my first language. I've played for a few hours since and I have no (heat) problems whatsoever.
Hi, I'm trying to decide whether or not to upgrade from the Xbox one, my main consideration is whether the 4k upscaling capabilities in the One S is superior to the Sony 4k processor X1 found in my TV (Sony KD55X8005CBU (SD:2).
I'm not concerned with HDR at the moment as my TV does not support it. I was looking for the "bit" in the Xbox one S teardown that's responsible for the upscaling so I could compare it, but after reading this I'm one the wiser :( Please don't take that the wrong way, it's not a criticism of the article, which I enjoyed it more than I thought possible from a tear down write up. Kind regards.
Which ones are the extra connectors (the white ones) of the Disk Drive and Hard Drive aside from the SATA connectors?
I Need An Power Supply Replacement And I Can't Seem To Locate A Website That Sells These Can Anyone Help me.
DM Me At Me2MasterMods2.1@Gmail.com.
I've thought about replacing the internal HDD with an SSD to improve speed of the console and especially loading times of games. After I saw good youtube reviews of people using external SSDs attached via USB 3.0 I changed my mind and I added also an external SSD to my Xbox One S. I used "Samsung Extreme 500" SSD with a capacity of 240 GB (which is working fine even it shows only 230 usable in Xbox menu). Speed has increased! :-)
I have done this.
i need de internal power supply to use in xbox one s.
"Microsoft Made in china.
Chicony Power Technology Co., LTD.
i have a picture.
do you have this power supply?
how much to send to brasil in this adress?
Does anyone know where I can locate a New HDMI port for the Xbox One S ? Seems like a difficult part to locate.
My Xbox One Keeps Tripping Off And A Technician Claims It's My Processor But Can't Fix It . Please Can You Help Me Out?
My Xbox light won't come on and when I turn it on its on on for a brief moment then the Xbox shuts off. Is this my power supply or could it be something else as well.
Any one know what plastic the xbox one s is made of I want to paint mine black and green and i'm not sure what paint to use or even how to prepare the surface. Thanks guys.
Great one. I really liked it.
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Lerne jeden Monat etwas Neues:
It's time to speak out for your right to repair.
We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. This is a once-in-a-generation chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers.
Join the cause and tell your state representative to support Right to Repair. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair!
Vorteile des Upgrades auf Xbox One X oder Xbox One S.
Neben den kleineren Abmessungen und der zusätzlichen 4K/HDR-Funktionalität erhalten Sie bei einem Upgrade zu Xbox One X oder Xbox One S u. a. folgende Features.
Vertikale Positionierung.
Im Gegensatz zur Original Xbox One erlauben Xbox One X und Xbox One S sowohl vertikale als auch horizontale Positionierung. Für eine vertikale Positionierung ist jedoch ein Ständer erforderlich. Da nicht jedes Konsolenbündel einen Ständer enthält, müssen Sie diesen möglicherweise separat kaufen.
Abgesehen von den einzigartigen vertikalen Ständern, die für Xbox One S und Xbox One X erforderlich sind, funktioniert das gesamte Xbox One-Zubehör an allen Xbox One-Konsolen.
Wenn Sie vorhaben, einen Kinect-Sensor an der Xbox One X oder Xbox One S zu verwenden, benötigen Sie einen Kinect-Adapter. Mehr Details finden Sie unter So verwenden Sie einen Xbox One Kinect-Sensor an der Xbox One X oder Xbox One S.
Wenn Sie Wireless Controller verbinden möchten, werden Sie feststellen, dass sich die Taste auf dem Controller zwar nicht geändert hat, aber die Taste befindet an den neueren Konsolen nicht mehr an der Seite, sondern unterhalb des Netzschalters. Weitere Informationen finden Sie unter Anschließen eines Xbox One Wireless Controllers.
Der Xbox One Wireless Controller, der mit der Xbox One X und der Xbox One S geliefert wird, kann mit beiden Xbox-Konsolen und – über Bluetooth-Funk – auf Windows 10-PCs verwendet werden. Weitere Informationen zur Verwendung von Bluetooth auf einem PC erhalten Sie unter Verwenden von Xbox One Wireless Controllern mit einem PC.
Wenn Sie die Kinect-IR-Funktionen zum Steuern von Geräten wie Ihrem Fernsehgerät oder Audio-Video-Empfänger verwenden, beachten Sie, dass IR-Blasting an der Vorderseite der Xbox One X und Xbox One S integriert ist. Wenn Sie Ihre Xbox in einem Schrank aufbewahren, stellen Sie sicher, dass der IR-Blaster der Konsole nicht blockiert wird.
Kompatibilität mit Spielen für die Original Xbox One.
Alle Ihre digitalen und diskbasierten Xbox One-Spiele können mit einer Xbox One X und Xbox One S verwendet werden.
Lizenzen für digitale Spiele und Apps werden zusammen mit Ihrem Xbox -Profil übertragen. Allerdings müssen Sie Spiele, die Sie digital gekauft haben, manuell herunterladen. Rufen Sie Meine Spiele & Apps > Bereit zum Installieren auf, und wählen Sie die gewünschten Inhalte aus.
4K- und HDR-Spiele und -Filme.
Wenn Sie ein kompatibles UHD-Fernsehgerät verwenden, nutzen Sie 4K- und HDR-Spiele (in ihrer systemeigenen Auflösung auf einer Xbox One X und hochskaliert auf 4K auf Xbox One S) und diskbasierte 4K Blu-Ray-Filme. Beim Verbinden erkennt Ihre Xbox One X oder Xbox One S automatisch Ihr Fernsehgerät und fordert Sie zur Aktualisierung der Anzeigeeinstellungen auf.
Weitere Informationen, wie z. B. Details zum Setup, finden Sie unter Problembehandlung für 4K und HDR auf der Xbox One.
Neues drahtloses Netzwerkprotokoll.
Neben den Drahtlosprotokollen 802.11 a/b/g/n Dual Band unterstützen Xbox One X und Xbox One S zusätzlich 802.11ac als Netzwerkprotokoll. Wenn Sie einen drahtlosen AC-Router haben, verwenden Sie dieses zum Verbinden mit Xbox Live.
UWP on Xbox One.
In this article.
Get started building apps for the Universal Windows Platform (UWP) on Xbox One.
UWP on Xbox One supports developing both apps and games. You don't have to be part of a developer program to experiment, create, and test games or apps on Xbox. All you need is a developer account on Windows Dev Center. When you are ready to publish and sell games on Xbox One or take advantage of Xbox Live on Windows 10, you need to join the Xbox Live Creators Program or be an ID@Xbox developer. If you plan to be an ID@Xbox developer, we recommend applying to the program first before registering for a developer account. For more info, see Developer program overview.
This section includes setup steps, a guide through the authentication process, information about installing the required versions of Visual Studio and Windows 10 tools, and the steps to build, run, and debug your first simple application.
The following talks on Channel 9 are a great source of information for building amazing apps on Xbox:
Xbox One S Upscaling works better then your Traditional 4K TV Upscale?
I wish this was a technical professional instead of this guy on youtube again using his budget equipment, wobbly camera, and budget Vizio 4K. I'm happy for him (even though the results add a blur effect, input lag, and image quality issues), but I expected someone else or an article, or words in the OP (Posting just a video in SW used to be locked and considered lazy as some people won't be bothered watching a video or simply cannot from their mobile).
Are we in SW expecting to see more advertising for this tiny youtube channel every time he posts something?
It would be more interesting seeing someone with a higher caliber brand (LG, Sony, Samsung, Panasonic), and much higher end OLED 4KTV being compared instead of this poor guys budget 4KTV.
I guess he will just crank out these videos in the hopes of attracting fanboys and an audience which will mean he gets paid.
The 4K upscale looks blurrier. Playing Unchareted 4 through the Xbox One S is pretty funny though.
The 4K upscale looks blurrier. Playing Unchareted 4 through the Xbox One S is pretty funny though.
PS4 slim can only upscale by the TV. The guy is showing the 4K TV upscale was inferior to him.
4k upscaling widely depends on your TV.
Also, I'm not sure how upscaling the content through the TV somehow increases the sharpness of the image but OK. It looks like this guy has some different settings across the HDMI ports or something that. I ran into the same issue when I was playing GTA V the other day.
if anyone who actually looks for 4k upscaling, you know to either go with lg or sony. not the vizio..the chip in the xbox one s is probably better than what the tv has.
@loe12k : Well showing us comparisons through a camera is probably the worst way to make a case one way or the other. We know the Xbox One S does a good job of both playing UHD discs as well as upscailing content. Native will always win though. And all ND has to do is release a 1440p patch and the PS4 Pro version will be the best one available.
The guy in the video addressed input lag. Running the PS4 through the Xbox One both increases lag AND degrades image quality. There have been threads on that before. Running your TV through the HDMI in degrades the image quite noticeably. I'm sure this is the case for Uncharted 4 as well. Again, the screens just look blurrier. From that camera footage I'm not seeing the improvement.
This guy needs his eyes checked. The xbox one looked like someone smeared vaseline all over the screen. That Vizio does a better job at upscaling then an xbox one s. LOL.
Im pretty sure the Xbox One S does upscale to 4k far better than the TV itself, but that was a terrible video.
The hell? The slim did not look better at all. Looked like all detail on his face was gone.
The reason you don't let the TV upscale is because of latency. Or that's how it used to be IIRC. TV's are normally pretty slow at upscaling stuff. Even if the TV produces a better image it may be better to let the console do the upscaling.
depends on the TV but usually hardware upscallers do a better job than most tvs.
The hell? The slim did not look better at all. Looked like all detail on his face was gone.
That was my first impression, then i realized the game's "camera" doing some slight bokeh on Drakes face because the focus point was on the shelf behind Drake. Focus on that (the items on the shelf) during the switch and you'll see the difference.
Thema: (Alte) Xbox 1 Neue Festplatte einbauen S-ATA 500GB.
Ich möchte diese Festplatte in meine Xbox 1 einbauen und darauf Xbox Spiele, Spielen und nichts anderes.
(Laut Konsolenprofis.de) aber hat früher noch Originale Spiele gelesen! ist das Laufwerk wichtig zum Installieren der Neuen Festplatte?
Da Spiele auf DVD sind, kann es daran liegen.
Das ganze ist doch etwas kompliziert musste mich dazu auch erst einlesen und es ging auch eine Zeit lang bis es dann fertig war.
Da Spiele auf DVD sind, kann es daran liegen. Muss ich bei den DVDs etwas beachten? z.B. "Marke" oder "-R/RW oder +R/RW"
Hab mich dann für einen von Digitus entschieden und läuft.
Hab mich dann für einen von Digitus entschieden und läuft. Meine Xbox ist da ich werde es morgen mal testen, nochetwas der S-ATA to IDE Adapter.
welcher ist das nun genau von Digitus denn ich Jumpern kann?
Ich betreibe den OHNE Jumper!
passt direkt hinter die HDD, sodass Du das Original HDD Kabel weiternutzen kannst!
Der TS hat ja auch noch die normale 8GB drin dann müsste es schon gehen.
und ein Philips das liest DVD+/-R's und CD's(diese aber nicht so gut)
die "Slayers EvoX Auto Installer" starten kann.
Mit Ihrem seperatem Laufwerk das die kurtz dafür eingebaut haben.
Die neue Festplatte nur nicht mit Auto Installer Deluxe" oder.
die "Slayers EvoX Auto Installer" formatieren. Mit diesen Proggis installieren ok aber nicht damit formatieren. Du hast ne große HDD d.h. die muss anders "geclustert" werden. (Original 16k cluster. Und ich glaub ab 250 GB HDD's muss man auf 32k clustern wenn ich mich recht errinnere, sorry lang ists her)
Bei der Wahl des DVD-Laufwerks würde ich auch das Thompson Modell empfehlen.
Nachteile, es ist das lauteste (knackert beim laden am meisten). Nimmt aber + und -R-Rohlinge anstandslos an. Auf die Unterstützung von CD-R, RW und Double Layer Rohlinge (8,5 GB) wirst du bei diesem Modell aber komplett verzichten müssen. Macht aber nichts, da XBox Classic Spiele mit DL Größe sowieso rar gesät sind. Da fielen mir gerade mal Ninja Gaiden Black, Rally Sport Challenge 2 und Jade Empire ein, und solche Games würden dann sowieso auf die HDD gehören.
Ich denke, GENAUSO ises!
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